Is a Sahara desert camp worth it? Our stay in Merzouga
Wondering what it’s really like to stay in a Sahara desert camp in Morocco? Here’s my honest experience staying in a luxury desert camp near Merzouga, including the camel ride, food, comfort level, sandstorms, and whether it’s worth the long journey.
Spending a night in the Sahara sounds magical: camel rides across golden dunes, stargazing by a campfire, and sleeping under a blanket of stars. And in many ways, it is.
But it’s also a long journey, a surprisingly structured experience, and, depending on the weather, a little less comfortable than you might expect.
Our night at a desert camp near Merzouga was all of that: beautiful, memorable… and not entirely what I’d imagined.
If you’re trying to decide whether a Sahara desert camp is right for you, here’s a quick overview.
Sahara Desert Camp: What to Expect
Erg Chebbi, near Merzouga
Comfort + adventure
Easy–moderate (4×4 + optional camel)
October–April
Dinner, breakfast, tent, music, dunes
Luxury tents with bathroom & electricity
A mix of stunning desert scenery, structured camp activities, and a surprisingly social atmosphere around dinner and the campfire.
More comfortable than you might expect, with proper beds and private bathrooms, but still shaped by weather and desert conditions.
Yes, if you go in with realistic expectations. It’s a long journey, but the landscape and experience make it unforgettable.
Arrival and first impressions
We were supposed to trek to the camp by camel, but after waiting a while for the wind to settle down, our driver decided the camel ride would not be safe. Whether this applied to us or to the camels he did not say. So instead of mounting a camel, we boarded a 4X4 and raced through the golden dunes. It was quite exhilarating actually: it felt like a roller coaster with a lot of sand. After some thirty minutes we arrived at the camp, which consisted of eight bedouin tents and a larger tent that served as a lounge, rest area and restaurant. At the far edge of the camp there was a campfire area with bean bags, benches and camel hair blankets. All of this settled between the golden dunes – all of it beautiful.
We were welcomed by friendly staff with mint tea and some olives, nuts and crackers and the camp manager took down our names. No real check-in needed as we’d booked and paid in advance. After the mint tea we were shown to our tent.
Our tent
Our tent had all the essentials: a comfy bed, a private bathroom with scented toiletries and a metal door we could close against the desert winds. There was electricity but the WiFi signal wasn’t very strong. This may have been because of all the sand in the air as the promised light breeze had developed into a full-blown sandstorm by then. The bed was made with soft sheets, several wool blankets and a bedspread – the desert can be cold, but we wouldn’t be. The bathroom was separated from the sleeping area by heavy curtains; towels were provided. There were also bedside tables, a small sofa, clothes hooks, and a basket with more blankets.
Food and dining experience
After we’d struggled up one of the dunes – the last few feet on hands and knees – and enjoyed whatever view there was left to be seen through the sand, it was time for dinner in the communal area.
The lounge tent felt and looked like a desert living room. There were regular tables and chairs, in case you were wondering whether you’d have to eat while sitting on the floor. Staff served a delicious starter of vegetables and chicken, followed by a tagine so good I briefly considered moving into the desert permanently. Dessert was custard with a caramel layer and fresh fruit, and more mint tea. After dinner we went outside, where the wind had died down and the sand had settled.
Music, stargazing and an early night
Outside the fires had been lit, the bean bags were waiting for us and we joined the other guests and our hosts for a few hours of traditional music, staring into the fire and gazing up at the stars. It was truly magical- as well as slightly comical when we had to play the musical instruments ourselves. I can confidently say that I have not missed out on a career opportunity as a percussionist. It was fun though. At about 10 PM we went back to our tent, snuggled under the many blankets and slept like logs. Well, mostly: I did wake up once or twice because there were quads driving in the nearby dunes. They are noisy machines – but this was the only thing that interfered (slightly) with a good night’s sleep.
Experiences
You cannot visit a desert camp without riding a camel, right? Actually, you can. Desert camps offer guests the option of reaching the camp by 4X4 if you don’t feel comfortable riding a camel. Our stay included a ride up to one of the highest dunes on camelback, but you can sit that one out too. I do need to warn you that this will mean having to climb up to the top of a high dune yourself if you want to see the sunrise. And really, seeing the sun colour the dunes from red to orange to yellow is something I wouldn’t have missed for the world. Even if it did mean mounting a camel and fearing I could be launched headfirst into the sand any minute. It was worth it.
Mounting the camel is not hard. Swing one leg over (with the help of the camel driver if needed) and up you go. You have a seat and a sort of handlebar to hold on to. Do listen to the instructions carefully. Lean back when the camel is getting up unless you want to face plant into the sand. Do the same when the camel walks down dunes, for the same reason. When it’s walking up the dune, there’s no issue.
This camp also offered sandboarding as a fun activity. As this did not feel like fun to me, more like an opportunity to break a few bones, I politely declined. It looked like others were having fun though so if you have more faith in your bone density than I do: by all means.
Breakfast and leaving the camp
After our close encounter with the camel, it was time for a hearty breakfast of eggs, tomato, spices, onions and fresh bread. After breakfast, we packed our bags, friendly staff came to put them in the 4X4 and it was time for us to leave. Waved off by the staff we got a final good look at the sand dunes through the windows of the car, before arriving back in Merzouga.
Some final thoughts
If your bucket list includes sand, stars, and tagines that taste like no other, this desert camp is worth it. Comfortable enough for a restful night, charming enough for unforgettable memories, and just challenging enough to make you tell stories later.
Some quick answers to frequently asked questions
Most visitors arrive by 4X4 from Merzouga. If you’re feeling adventurous, camel rides are available from nearby villages. In that case, staff will handle your luggage if you just let them know. If you are not an experienced camel rider, I would not opt for this.
Absolutely. There is some uneven terrain but camp staff are always on hand to assist. When I say “uneven” think loose sand, not mountains. Activities are optional and can be tailored to energy levels. It would be a shame to miss seeing the sun rise from the top of the dune, but even this activity is optional.
Meals (typically breakfast and dinner), tea, a comfortable tent, access to shared lounge and entertainment like Amazigh (Berber) music around the fire. Alcohol is not served.
As always: layers. Days can be hot, evenings cool, nights cold. Sun protection: sunglasses, sunscreen and preferably a head scarf or a hat. Closed-toe shoes for walking on sand, unless you want to take home the entire Sahara, not just the part of it that ended up – well, pretty much everywhere. Personal items like medication, toiletries, a camera, maybe something to read.
Yes. The camp is staffed around the clock. Outdoor lighting is minimal to preserve the desert atmosphere, but there is enough light to get around. If you don’t feel comfortable walking around alone, the staff will happily accompany you.
October to April is ideal – warm days and cooler nights. Summer months can be extremely hot, so if you’re sensitive to heat, plan your trip during the shoulder season.
Planning your desert trip? Our three-day tour from Marrakech covers transport, activities, and highlights along the way, complementing this stay in the desert camp.
If city life calls before heading into the desert, a cozy stay in a riad in Marrakech – full of charm, comfort and mint tea – is a perfect base. Read our riad review here.
This article is part of our Morocco travel for over-55 travellers series, where we share honest, experience-based advice about whether Morocco is the right choice at this stage of life.
