Planning a winter trip to Iceland at 55+

I’m currently planning a four-day winter trip to Iceland and I’m in the stage of travel where everything looks both wildly beautiful and mildly terrifying. The photos show serene glaciers, half-frozen waterfalls and beautiful soft light. The small print suggests wind, ice, and the very real possibility of standing in a car park at 4 in the afternoon wondering where all the daylight went.

Iceland feels straightforward to plan – until you really look into it. It’s safe, well organised, and clearly used to visitors. Still, winter adds a few complications that I can’t ignore. With only four days to work with, choices matter. A lot. Shall we self-drive or go on tours? How much can we really see in so little time? How should we dress for weather that appears to change its mind hourly? Travelling at 55+, we love an adventure. Just not the sort that involves white-knuckle moments on icy roads, slipping less than elegantly in the car park, or wondering whether this is how the saga ends.

This guide comes from the planning phase rather than the reminiscing one. It’s based on research, advice from people who have done this before, and a healthy respect for a country that does not adjust itself to fit your itinerary. It’s everything I googled and asked so you don’t have to. The aim is to arrive informed enough to cope when plans go awry — because in Iceland, apparently, they often do.

Before we start: if you’re wondering Iceland is a good destination for you, check out this infographic!

Self-drive or guided tour? The big decision

This is the question that you should answer before everything else. Do you want the maximum flexibility of driving everywhere yourself—at the risk of overestimating your driving skills and needing rescue by taciturn men in high-vis coveralls? Or would you rather trade all the decision-making for the safety of a tour, even if it means being whisked to the next stop just as you’re starting to grow attached to the one you’re at?

Self-Drive: Independence with some caveats

Driving yourself around Iceland offers freedom. The freedom to stop when something catches your eye, to linger over a view, and to change plans when the weather inevitably does something unexpected. This might suit you if you want to control your pace. When driving yourself, you can avoid crowds by timing stops carefully. It’s also generally cheaper for couples or families.

On the other hand, self-driving might not be for you if you don’t feel confident driving on Iceland’s icy, narrow and occasionally closed roads. You’re not supposed to drive on closed roads, by the way. I lack the confidence, and even Marc decided to give this one a miss. Don’t forget the wind either: it’s a literary force of nature. Driving in these conditions will be tough. It will require more concentration than usual—unless you’re from a place where ten inches of snow is considered a light dusting. And no matter how carefully you’ve timed your stops, you may still end up at a waterfall where all the lights are out.

If you do choose to drive, a 4WD vehicle is essential, and you must be willing to abandon Plan A (and possibly plan B and C) without sulking. Checking road conditions each morning becomes part of the routine, rather like checking the weather forecast — except taken far more seriously.

Guided tours: let someone else worry

For many winter visitors (and – spoiler – that includes us), tours are simply the sensible choice. Someone else drives, watches the weather, and makes judgement calls while you look out of the window and think appreciative thoughts. This will suit you if you don’t want the winter driving stress, and if you appreciate knowledgeable guides who know when to push on and when to turn back. Guided tours take you places where you couldn’t or wouldn’t go on your own, like glacier walks, ice caves and Northern Lights trips. They also know how to adapt itineraries and, not to be overlooked: how to visit the sights at the best times of the day.

Of course this choice has a downside too. You’re on a schedule, so no lingering if you fall in love with a place. Some stops are so brief you barely have time for a brisk walk to the waterfall before being herded back onto the bus. Plus, a tour means tolerating other people before coffee.

You can also mix and match two- or three-day tours with a night or two in Reykjavík, giving you the freedom to explore the countryside without missing out on the city’s cafés, nightlife, museums and charming streets. It’s the perfect balance of adventure and downtime. This is what we decided to do in the end. I’ll let you know how it was as soon as we’re back.

If you decide to go for a tour, a few sensible rules apply. Choose operators with strong, consistent reviews. Before you even start comparing tours, decide what you want to see and do at the very least. Then look for tours that offer just that. Check group size: most tours operate minivans but there are a few with full-sized coaches too. Read the cancellation policy – weather changes plans. Good companies will be upfront about this.

Finally, mistrust companies that offer you the golden circle, the south coast, a glacier hike, Aurora-tours, whale watching and an ice-cave, all in two days. A good tour company will be realistic, not relentlessly optimistic. You can find helpful advice on how to choose the best tour for you here.

Getting to Reykjavik from Kevlavik Airport.

Keflavík is about 45 minutes from Reykjavík, which sounds easy — until the wind and snow remind you otherwise. Options are simple: airport shuttle (cheaper but not door-to-door), private transfer (costlier, more convenient), or self-drive if you fancy your first taste of Icelandic roads. Pick your method based on how much you want to spend, luggage, energy levels, and how urgently you need a hot drink.

We opted for the a taxi on arrival and the Flybus airport shuttle on the return trip. We booked a transfer that will take us from the airport to the hotel. I don’t want to recommend companies here because I don’t know what it was like yet. For the way back to the airport, we’ll take the Flybus. Cheaper, but not door to door.

Daylight in winter: manage expectations!

Winter daylight in Iceland is brief and precious. Depending on the month, you may have four to six hours of usable light, roughly late morning to mid-afternoon. And that’s in the southern part of the country. In a place like Ísafjörður in the North West the sun barely rises at all around the winter solstice.

You will still be exploring from dawn to dusk—there’s just not much time between them. Distances take longer than you expect, and if you’re not careful, you might visit a spot in the middle of the day that would have been stunning at sunrise—or arrive at a waterfall in pitch dark. Tours know how to time the driving and the stops, so if you’re going to self-drive I’d check their itineraries and use them for inspiration.

The upside? Dramatic low winter light, long nights perfect for chasing the Northern Lights (if they bother to show up and aren’t hiding behind clouds), and countless thermal baths where you can soak away your sightseeing stress.

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Accommodation: fewer moves, more comfort

With only four days, constantly changing hotels quickly becomes tiring. Staying put in Reykjavík and making day trips is a sensible and comfortable strategy for self-drivers. Reykjavik has more than enough hotels and guest houses to choose from, at different price levels.

On the other hand, don’t underestimate the longer driving times. If you’re heading to the south coast you might want to book a hotel there. If you’re self-driving, try to limit yourself to one or two bases at most on such a short trip. It saves time, energy, and gives you somewhere familiar to retreat to after long, cold days.

If you’re taking multi-day tours, many operators include overnight stays in locations away from light pollution. This is a double bonus: it reduces travel fatigue because you’re not driving back and forth to Reykjavik all the time, and it improves your chances of seeing the Northern Lights without having to chase them across half the country. A warm room, good breakfast, and the quiet of a countryside setting can feel luxurious after a long day of being out in the cold.

Even in Reykjavík, choose accommodations with reliable heating, breakfast included, and a parking option if you’re driving.

Pack like you mean it

There’s a longer post about what to bring (and what not) to Iceland. It includes a downloadable packing list. For now, suffice it to say that as always, layers are essential. Waterproofing is non-negotiable, and footwear matters more than almost anything else. Think in terms of: warm base layers, insulating mid-layers, waterproof outer layers, proper boots with grip, hat, snood or scarf and gloves. If you’d prefer to take photographs without dropping your phone in a mud pot because of frozen fingers, consider touchscreen gloves. Don’t forget your swimwear for the hot springs and spas. Finally, microspikes are an excellent idea for icy paths – especially if you prefer to stay upright and dignified.
Find the packing advice and checklist here.

How much money to bring (and how not to waste it)

Iceland is expensive, but easy when it comes to payments. You will rarely need cash, as cards are accepted almost everywhere. Tips are not expected – although appreciated.

Food is going to be one of the main expenses. Especially eating out adds up, not to mention alcohol which is really expensive. Expect meals to be €40–80+ if you eat out. Grocery prices are reasonable. If you don’t feel like you’re truly on holiday without a glass of wine or beer (not judging!) then buying duty-free at the airport of departure might be your friend.
You can book an accommodation with self-catering facilities, go to the shops and cook for yourself. Most shops sell sandwiches and snacks; you might want to bring these on tours so you don’t have to buy lunch along the way. Accommodation with breakfast included is a small luxury that pays off, both in time and money.

Tours can be expensive, but are worth it. The main attractions of Iceland are all in nature, and mostly free. if you want to make the most of Reykjavík itself, the Reykjavik City Card gives you access to museums, thermal pools, and public transport, so you can wander the city freely without worrying about tickets or transport costs.

This is not the place to chase bargains at the expense of comfort. Do you want memories of feeling warm, relaxed and pleasantly tired, or of being cold and grumpy and trying to survive on half a cracker?

Set realistic expectations

Iceland is raw, dramatic, and the weather can interfere with your plans quite easily. Plans you make in sunshine might need to shift when winds pick up or roads close. The trick is not to fight the weather, but to use it: slow your pace, let the landscape sink in, and laugh at the little misadventures. Those are the stories you’ll remember (and re-tell).

A short trip such as this won’t let you see everything — and that’s okay. What you will come away with, so I’ve been reassured over and over, are memories of spectacular waterfalls, crackling glaciers, scary waves, warm springs under cold skies, and maybe, just maybe, dancing lights overhead.

Want to read more about Iceland in winter? Check the Iceland page for more posts.