Umlani Bush Camp review: what it’s really like to stay there
Staying in a Safari Bush Camp: a good idea?
Everyone had told me before we went to South Africa that a stay in a safari camp in a private game reserve was going to be a highlight of our stay, so of course I wasn’t going to miss it. But as always, there was the nagging question Can I still do that? Will it require running from predators, navigating difficult terrain and roughing it in the wild? Well, I could absolutely do it, there was no running involved and as for roughing it: only because we wanted to and opted for a stay in the treehouse. See my other post about Umlani Bush Camp for the treehouse; in this one you will find some commonly asked questions to help you answer the question: Umlani sounds amazing – but is it for me?
At a glance
A bush camp stay that feels adventurous, atmospheric and far more comfortable than you might expect
Umlani gives you the romance of safari camp life, with guided game drives, firelit evenings and outdoor showers under the stars, without requiring you to be especially rugged.
This experience is part of our South Africa travel for over-55 travellers guide, which covers comfort, safety, and what to expect when visiting South Africa.
Arrival after an adventurous drive
We arrived at Umlani Bush Camp, tucked away in the heart of the Timbavati private game reserve in South Africa, after an adventurous drive along winding dirt tracks. Along the way we even stopped for a real-life zebra crossing. Yes, a herd of zebras casually crossing the road. The car was covered in dust 500 meters into the drive and after a mere few miles we felt lucky not to get stuck halfway through a riverbed. Steep slopes on both sides and lots of trees and bushes for unfriendly wildlife to lurk in. Not the kind of place where you’d want to get out of the car and push.
The minute we got out of the car at Umlani, the warm and welcoming staff were waiting for us, all smiles and eager to help. They handled the paperwork quickly and efficiently before showing us to our huts. The huts were stunning: traditional rondavel-style structures that looked authentic but still offered all the creature comforts you could possibly need. Well, except wi-fi or electricity, but I’ll get to that. The huts had a cosy bed with mosquito nets, a tiny but well-equipped bathroom and, much to my delight, an outdoor shower.
Getting familiar with the camp
After only five minutes to admire our temporary home, we were summoned to lunch; not by phone, but by someone banging distant drums. We made our way to the observation deck and restaurant overlooking the waterhole. There were no animals at that time of day, but it was quiet, peaceful and beautiful. A perfect backdrop to our “light” lunch.
After lunch, it was time for the lodge’s manager Micaela to brief us on life at Umlani. She promised us great meals, free drinks, guided game drives, sundowners and a dazzling night sky. Most of all, she promised a great time, as long as we kept a few things in mind.
The basic rule: no walking around unaccompanied after sunset. Animals would roam the camp freely, and you wouldn’t want to meet a hyena on your way from the boma to the bathroom. A boma, by the way, is a traditional enclosed outdoor area for campfires, dining and gathering in safari camps. Every hut had a radio to call for assistance in case of an emergency. My daughter and I both wondered if a huge spider would count as an emergency and were promptly reassured.
There was a small solar panel, just enough to power a nightlight and two phones. Exactly one place in the camp had a wi-fi signal: just follow the teenagers. There was a small swimming pool, but we shouldn’t freak out if a few elephants showed up for a drink. In camp, we had to listen to the staff. On game drives, we had to listen to the trackers and rangers. Lastly: no food in the huts if you didn’t want the monkeys to steal it. After we promised to be good, it was time for our first game drive.
First game drive
Excited, we were quick to climb into the safari truck. Our ranger and tracker joined us and off we went, into the bush. Umlani’s rangers were constantly in contact with rangers from other bush camps. This enabled them to find the wildlife and bring us close to it. And I mean really close. Best not to think about it too much. We saw a massive herd of buffalo ploughing through a waterhole, we saw our first rhinos and of course we saw elephants, because there are lots of them and they’re rather hard to miss.
At sunset we stopped for drinks and snacks: the famous sundowners. Standing there, watching the sun go down and hearing the bush come to life around us was truly one of the best experiences of my life. When it was fully dark we drove back to the camp. All the animals were in hiding but we were too busy staring up at the milky way to care.
Dinner by the light of oil lamps
Back at camp, a set table was waiting for us. All the guests ate at the same table. This gave us ample opportunity to meet new people and swap stories of sightings, while enjoying great food. After dinner we assembled in the boma, around the fire. While we were having coffee and toasting marshmallows, a curious hyena peeked around the corner of the boma to see what the noise was all about. This proved Micaela’s earlier point. Before it was even ten o’clock we were escorted to our huts. Time for a shower under the stars and a good night’s sleep.
Frequently asked questions
Umlani has natural dirt paths and uneven ground rather than paved walkways. The main camp area is compact and generally easy to navigate.
There aren’t major staircases, just occasional single steps or small level changes.
A wheelchair-friendly hut is available, but the rest of camp remains authentically “bush style.” If you opt for the treehouse sleep-out, you need to be able to climb the ladder up to the platform. This is a steep ladder of about 15 rungs. You are driven there by safari truck, so you don’t have to walk the 2 kilometers to the treehouse.
Overall Umlani is absolutely manageable for most visitors, but not ideal if you need completely even footing.
The beds in the huts and the beds in the treehouse are incredibly comfortable. They have mosquito nets, woolen blankets, soft linnen and comfortable pillows. When it’s cold in winter, a hot water bottle is put into your bed for you. When staying in the treehouse, your head may get cold in winter because it’s in the open air. Why not bring a beanie hat?
Absolutely. There’s a small bathroom, a small separate toilet and my favourite feature: the outdoor shower! Toiletries are provided. Pro tip for those with deteriorating eyesight, like me: keep your glasses on when showering under the stars. Amazing.
Not if you mean noisy guests, loud music, traffic, planes overhead and other kinds of everyday noise. You won’t hear a thing. Yes if you think lions roaring, hyenas making whatever sound it is that hyenas make and elephants trampling stuff is “noise”. For me, the noises of the bush made it extra special.
There is hardly any electricity: everything is lit by fires and oil lamps. This is of course part of the magic. There is enough electricity in the huts to power a phone and camera, plus a solar-powered lamp. There is Wi-Fi in one place in the camp. As for food: there’s no menu, you just eat “wat de pot schaft” as we say in Dutch. This means that only one meal is served to everyone. If you are vegan or vegetarian or have any allergies or intolerance, let the staff know on booking.
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Or you can contact Umlani directly for questions and special requests.
If you’re comparing styles of stay, I’ve also rounded up the best safari lodges in South Africa for 55+ travellers
Read more about our second day in Umlani Bush Camp, including our treehouse adventure
