Umlani Bushcamp game drives and treehouse nights

This is part 2 of our Umlani stay. If you’d like the practical details first, including comfort, camp layout and what to expect, start with part 1.

Another sunrise, another game drive: Umlani day 2

Waking up in the dead of night is part of the safari experience, apparently. So after a quick knock on the door and a cheerful “Good morning!” (although whether 4:30 AM really counts as morning is debatable), we hurried to get dressed and stumbled bleary-eyed toward the boma. A ranger escorted us through the darkness – it was still pitch-black outside and the bush was very much alive. In the boma, steaming coffee and crunchy rusks were waiting, and we gradually came to life by the warmth of the fire. Before long, it was time to climb back into the trucks and head out again. This morning’s mission: find the lions.

The reserve is home to several prides, and the one closest to camp that morning was the Giraffe Pride. After plenty of bouncing along dusty tracks, the radio crackled to life – the lions had been spotted. Our ranger explained that only one safari truck could approach them at a time, so we waited at a distance, anticipation building, until it was finally our turn.

Lions before breakfast

We finally rolled forward and there they were, a pride of lionesses and young males, stretched out, basking in the early morning sunshine. The older males, we heard, were patrolling the perimeter of their territory. The lions, about 20 of them, seemed indifferent to our presence. But our ranger reminded us that their calm was only an illusion. One arm or leg dangling outside the truck, he said, would shatter that indifference in an instant. We decided not to test that hypothesis.

Even though the lions were exactly where we knew they’d be, I was still in awe. There wasn’t the heart-racing surprise of stumbling upon them by chance, but simply being in their presence was enough. They were majestic and beautiful – and doing very little, really.

After we’d had our fill of staring at the pride, it was time for the next vehicle to roll up and watch them. Our next stop: morning coffee on the beach of a small lake. Lots of open space between us and the bush where something may or may not have been lurking. Either way, the rangers were keeping an eye out.
On the way back to Umlani (and breakfast) we could ditch the blankets and the hot water bottles: it was warming up nicely. We paused to take in a gathering of the park’s vegetarian residents – giraffes, elephant, buffalos and hippos. They may not view you as lunch, which is comforting, but they can still flatten you without a second thought. The rangers made sure we kept a safe distance.

Lazy afternoons and a leopard

At breakfast – a breakfast fit for kings I may add – conversation veered toward the treehouse a few kilometers from the camp. It was free that night, Micaela told us. Would we like to spend the night?
I was a bit apprehensive: being stuck in the middle of the bush, miles from anyone, what if a leopard decided to join us on the platform? My knee-jerk response was to say no. But the hopeful faces of Marc and the children made me reconsider. After all, why not? What was the worst thing that could happen? I decided not to dwell on that question and reserved the treehouse.

The rest of the morning and afternoon we spent relaxing. Time to lie in the sun and watch elephants fight from the deck. I pretended to read a book and may or may not have fallen asleep. After lunch: another outdoor shower – in the sun – and another game drive. This time we spotted a leopard. Among other creatures. We had our sundowner on an abandoned airstrip – once again with a respectful distance between us and the bush. Back at camp we had another excellent dinner, followed by a quick brush of our teeth and off we went: to the treehouse!

Treehouse magic

Through the pitch-black night, two rangers drove us out to the treehouse overlooking the waterhole. It turned out to be far less accessible to leopards than I’d feared: a solid ladder, a heavy trapdoor, and a roof with no tempting branches nearby. Reassured that nothing could casually pad its way onto the platform, we took in our temporary home.

In the treehouse, there was a double bed and two singles, each piled high with woolen blankets, plus a small toilet cubicle tucked into the corner. One of the rangers handed us a radio and a spotlight, told us they’d be back just before sunset for the morning game drive, and then they disappeared into the night. Suddenly, we had noting to do but marvel at the magic around us. The Milky Way blazing overhead. The stillness of the waterhole. The crisp, cold air. Lions roaring in the distance and hyenas…. doing whatever it is hyenas do. It was all breathtaking. Still, we’d been awake since well before dawn, so by ten o’ clock we were wrapped in blankets and ready for sleep.

Did I sleep well? Not really. I must have woken ten times. At least. But each time, instead of minding, I simple thought, I’m in a treehouse! In the bush! In Africa! I wonder what that rustling sound is? —and drifted off again.
I was awake in time to catch the most glorious sunrise I’ve ever seen. And by the time the rangers returned for our final game drive on our last morning in Umlani, I already knew one thing for certain: I’m definitely coming back here.