Staying in a Riad in Marrakech
1001 nights in the Medina (well, two nights)
If you’re planning a trip into the glorious chaos of Marrakech’s medina, let me share one essential tip from a traveller with a bit more mileage. You simply have to stay in a riad. Not a hotel, not an apartment— a riad. It’s the only place where you can step straight from the medina’s lively maze into a courtyard so peaceful you’ll swear someone pressed a mute button.
After extensive research I found one: Riad le Jardin des Sens et Spa. This riad is a proper little haven. It’s the perfect retreat after a day spent exploring the souks. And somehow stopping for a mint tea in at least three different places.
This article is part of our Morocco travel for over-55 travellers series, which looks honestly at whether Morocco is a comfortable and rewarding destination for explorers with slightly more mileage.
Arrival and driving to the Medina
One of the reasons why I’d chosen to go to Le Jardin des Sens et Spa (apart from its catchy name…) was that they arranged airport transfers. Arriving late in the afternoon at the busy airport, I was happy I could phone the driver and tell him we’d arrived so he could come and pick us up. He was waiting for us outside, along with someone carrying the suitcases, and within minutes of clearing immigrations we were in a comfortable, cool car – headed for the Medina. I was very happy I wasn’t driving. Even Marc was happy he wasn’t driving. Amid the mopeds, donkey carts and cars, it seemed the only rule was: whoever honks the loudest has the right of way.
Welcome to Le Jardin des Sens et Spa
The Riad is in one of the narrow side streets that are not accessible by car. This meant that a new, very helpful person was waiting for us with a trolley, ready to take us and our luggage to the Riad. He lead us through the narrow streets to an inconspicuous front door. He knocked, the door opened and we entered what I have to describe as a little corner of paradise. I won’t bore you with the descriptions: the photos speak for themselves.
The manager of the Riad, Redouan, was waiting for us with a fresh pot of mint tea, which he expertly poured while we were still looking around in admiration. He sat down next to us, put a map on the table and started firing advice at us: must-sees, must-dos, things to avoid, scams not to fall for and that we really shouldn’t eat any food from the stalls at Djemaa El Fnaa, the main square of the city. Try to do that when it all smells so great! We nodded obediently and drank our tea. Then Redouan gave us a quick tour of the Riad and showed us to our room.
The food, oh, the food!
After a leisurely scroll through the souks and across the Djemaa el Fnaa, tantalising smells from the food stalls and all, we made our way back to the Riad for the dinner we’d booked ahead. Luckily Marc has a better sense of direction than I do, because if it were up to me we’d still be wandering the soukhs right now. And it’s months ago.
We sat down at a low table in the beautiful dining room and tucked our legs underneath it, snake-person-like. Soon, the first course arrived: a delicious assortment of appetisers. Tomato, aubergine, onions, olives, cheeses, all equally tasty. The second course was a traditional tajine: a slow-cooked stew of (in this case) chicken, vegetables and spices, served with couscous. Now where normally I think couscous tastes so bland you might as well eat the box it comes in, this was something else entirely. The whole dish was, and I’m going to repeat myself, delicious. So was the dessert, fresh fruits and custard. The staff were incredibly kind and helpful, the wine was good, and even though my legs were asleep when I tried to unfold them, we had a great time.
How we slept
After dinner and a drink on the rooftop terrace, we headed to our cosy room for a good night’s sleep. This proved to be very easy. Thanks to the fancy scents, the just-right mattress, the snuggly blankets, and the wonderful quiet, we slept like logs.
Rested and happy we woke up to a lovely breakfast, served in the rooftop breakfast area. It had rained the previous night so we couldn’t lounge near the pool, but the breakfast more than made up for it. And there was no time to lounge and hang about anyway, because we had a very busy day of sightseeing ahead of us. Look here for how we spent our two days in Marrakech.
The spa part of the experience on day two
On day two we walked 20.000 steps (no I’m not exaggerating this) through the Medina and the souks. After all of that, our feet (and the rest of us) could do with some TLC. So we went back to the riad in time for a well-deserved massage. I bruised a rib once when a masseuse was a bit too enthusiastic so I asked her to take it easy and she did. It was a couples’ massage, which was nice. It was so relaxing I nearly fell asleep. Completely relaxed and smelling fantastic (those oils!) we lounged by the pool for an hour. After that we headed up the stairs for another lovely dinner and an early night: we were leaving on a three-day sightseeing tour the next day. Read more about that experience in this post.
Frequently asked questions about the riad and the city
It’s manageable if you can walk a reasonable amount of steps. The rooms are all on the ground floor and first floor. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace (or it was when we were staying). Our first dinner was on the patio. We had the second one on the roof terrace. The staff are very accommodating though. I think they will arrange for you to eat downstairs if necessary. The stairs are narrow, but they do have railings to hold on to. There are a few awkward steps when you go from one part of the riad to the other. They were originally two separate buildings. There is one pool on the ground floor, next to the spa area. Other pools do require walking stairs. There is no lift.
Yes, very. The beds are excellent, everything is styled beautifully, the bathrooms are good-sized and easily accessible. All the rooms are different, so check ahead which one you want. You can see all the rooms on their official website. We had booked the Jinina but were upgraded to a bigger room on the first floor.
No, it’s actually very quiet at night. You’d think you were somewhere out in the countryside, noise-wise. Surprising, given how close it is to the souks. One reason is that all the doors and windows face the patio, not the street. It’s also because the street itself is quiet and there are no mosques close by. Call to prayer gives a lot of couleur locale, but maybe not at 5 AM.
You’re visiting a country where Islam is the dominant religion. This means there are some things you need to be aware of.
Alcohol’s around in Marrakech—you just won’t see it out on the streets. Most local places skip it, but hotels and certain restaurants serve it, and Riad Jardin de Sens et Spa does too. So if you want to have a glass of wine rather than a mint tea, just ask.
We visited Morocco during Ramadan, the month when Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset. Visiting during Ramadan just means the days feel quieter. Some cafés open late, a few shops close in the afternoon, and people save their energy for sunset. But when the call to prayer ends the fast, everything comes alive again. You can still eat and drink during the day—just be respectful of locals and avoid eating, drinking, or smoking in the streets. If you prefer the Medina just a bit less hectic, Ramadan might be a good month for you. We didn’t have any trouble finding food or drink, even during the day.
In Marrakech, you’ll be most comfortable in light, loose clothing that keeps you cool while covering a bit more than you might at home. The city isn’t overly strict, but because it’s a Muslim-majority place, you’ll blend in better if your shoulders, chest, and knees are covered, especially in the medina or souks. Think breathable fabrics that move with you and protect you from the sun. You don’t need a headscarf unless you’re visiting a religious site, and swimwear is perfectly fine at your riad or hotel—just not on the street. Dressing a touch more modestly usually means fewer stares and friendlier interactions, and you’ll still feel totally yourself.
