3-Week South Africa Itinerary – all the highlights without the rush.
A relaxed, realistic route through South Africa — with enough time for wildlife, wine and the occasional lie-in.
At a glance
Trip length: 24 days
Number of bases: 9
Bases with 1 night: 1
Full travel days: 5
Total kilometers driven: 2800, including road trips
Domestic flight: 1
Three weeks in South Africa without feeling rushed (too much)
South Africa was one of those places that exceeded our expectations – and they were high to begin with. With all the gorgeous landscapes, scenic road trips, amazing wildlife sightings, great food and bustling cities we almost forgot how long it took us to get there in the first place.
We spent more than three weeks there, and by the end we had enough stories to regale (or bore) people with for a long time. And that one video of a leopard walking close to our car. But what we also discovered is that South Africa rewards a relaxed pace; it’s a country best savoured, not rushed.
Between the wildlife (which has its own timetable), the distances (bigger than they look on a map) and the sheer number of places people tell you that you must visit, planning a trip to South Africa can feel slightly overwhelming. The good news? You don’t need to see everything to have an unforgettable time. You can’t even see everything there is to see, unless you have a year and unlimited funds. This is why we skipped E-Swatini, Durban, most of the west coast, the Drakensberg escarpment and most of the wild parks. We’ll just have to come back for the parts we missed.
About this itinerary
This 3-week South Africa itinerary is built around a sensible pace, a logical route and the firm belief that holidays are meant to be enjoyed, not endured. It’s the exact trip we made, and we have no regrets and hardly anything we would change. Well, except not staying even longer, maybe. It had a bit of everything — safari, coastal drives, lively cities, memorable places to stay — without us having to pack our bags every other day, or spending our life in the car. Although we did drive a lot.
To make this easier to read for you, I’ve kept the day-to-day plans flexible and concise. I’ve linked to more detailed posts where it helps, so you can dig deeper into safaris, road trips, packing tips and special stays without losing the bigger picture.
If you like the idea of a South Africa trip that leaves room for long lunches, wildlife delays (yes, they happen) and the odd change of plan, this itinerary should suit you nicely.
Some links in this post are affiliate links, which may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. See the affiliate disclosure page for more info.
Is this itinerary right for you?
This itinerary works particularly well if, like us, you:
Are visiting South Africa for the first time
Prefer a comfortable pace over ticking every box – which is impossible anyway unless
you have a year and a fortune to spend
Like road trips and safaris, but not ones that involve sunrise starts every day
Want a mix of wildlife, scenery, cities and good food
Are travelling independently and happy to self-drive. Which I am not but luckily, Marc is.
Why we planned the trip like this
The main thing we considered before even starting to plan the trip was that it was a family trip. Our children, 23 and 18 at the time, were travelling with us. Luckily they don’t mind sharing a room, which made quite a difference in finding (and affording) accommodation. Their presence did mean that all the activities would have to be fun for all of us. It also meant that we would have to make sure there were vegetarian options everywhere. This, by the way, was never an issue.
We started in Cape Town and then moved further north for a number of reasons. Firstly, we travelled from “Oh this still feels quite like where I’m from” to “Wow, I’m in a different world!” This made acclimatising slightly easier. We weren’t jetlagged because all we did was fly straight south, so no time difference. This won’t be true for most people, so starting off easy and getting over jetlag might be wise. The second reason was that we were there in South African winter. We preferred to start with cooler temperatures in the south and then have warmer weather in the north, at the end. Save the best for last!
Skipping all of Durban, eSwatini and the wild parks along the east coast was because 24 days was all we had. Including even more would have meant multiple one-day stays and even more driving, which we did not want.
First week: Cape Town, whales and some wine
We started gently in the Cape Province, spending a few days in Cape Town before easing into South Africa with coastal drives, dramatic scenery and — if you time it right — whales that turn up exactly when they feel like it. It was a lovely way to find our rhythm and get used to being on another continent.
Day 1 – 4: Cape Town and surroundings
- We stayed 4 nights in Floreal House in a quiet part of Cape Town. It came with charming rooms, a great breakfast and two adorable little dogs. It also came with locked gates and a guard outside the hotel at night so if you’re worried about not feeling safe, this is an excellent option. If you want to see what it’s like, you can read more and book Floreal House here.
- We’d arranged for a pick-up from the airport and a transfer to a hotel. Glad we did, as we arrived at 10 PM after a 12-hour flight. Just staggering off the plane and into a waiting car feels so much better than having to worry about where to go and how to get there. It’s also safer.
- We’d booked hop on-hop off bus tickets and tickets to the Table Mountain cable car in advance. This made seeing the sights in Cape Town hassle-free. The tickets we had included a boat tour in the harbour and a guided walk through Bo-Kaap (recommended!)
- When the buses were no longer running at night, we took Ubers to restaurants in Bree Street or Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. The latter is a lovely part of Cape Town, by the way.
- Our rental car was delivered to our hotel on day three and we used it to go on a road trip around the Cape Peninsula. See this post for more details about the Cape Point experience.
- We went to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, also by rental car. Even in winter this was amazing, and we spent almost an entire day there.
Day 5 – 7: wine tasting and the drive to Hermanus to see some whales.
- After our morning in Kirstenbosch, we drove on to the Cape Vineyards. We stayed two nights at Knorrhoek Country Guesthouse, which is a working wine estate as well as a charming little hotel with great food. More about Knorrhoek, plus booking and prices, can be found here.
- We visited three different wine estates and loved them all, so more about that to come! Tip: book the wine tram or go cycling through the vineyards. We didn’t and this is one of the tweaks I would make.
- From the winelands we drove to Hermanus, where we stayed two nights in The Potting Shed, a charming guest house with lovely breakfast, a nice little rooftop terrace apartment as well as smaller twin rooms, and incredibly helpful hosts.
- We didn’t see whales from the land (even though land-based whale-watching is entirely possible in the right season) but we went on a boat trip and saw them anyway. Read about the whales and the waves here!
- Whale watching season is from June to November, with peak sightings in August and September. Outside of season Hermanus is still a charming little town but I would have skipped it without the whales.
Week 2: The Karoo, the Garden Route and the trip up north
Week two was all about the journey: wide-open Karoo landscapes, classic Garden Route stops and the sense that South Africa kept getting bigger the further we drove. There was a bit more time on the road this week, balanced by some wonderfully memorable places to stop.
Day 8- 10: A long drive to Oudtshoorn and a special stay in La Plume Guesthouse
- We stayed three nights at La Plume Boutique Hotel and Spa in Oudtshoorn, in the Little Karoo. Old-world charm, excellent spa facilities and delicious ostrich steaks. I got made fun of because I thought they’d taste like chicken. They did not. Find information, prices and booking options here if you’d like to stay at La Plume.
- The drive from Hermanus to Oudtshoorn was a long one, so leave on time. The views are amazing and because of leaving late we didn’t have time to make longer stops.
- We spent the first day in Oudtshoorn enjoying the spa facilities and going on a game drive at Buffelsdrift Game Lodge. Fun, but you can skip it if you’re going to the big game parks later. This one was more of a large zoo with dirt roads and a guide.
- On the second day we did a full day trip of the Cango caves, the Swartberg Pass and the Meiringspoort Pass. With all the stops to stare at the scenery and take photos it took us some eight hours. So leave on time because it’s not really a stretch I would have liked to drive in the dark. I’ll tell you more about this in an upcoming post.
- We ended our stay with another meal in the old-world charm of the La Plume dining room. Let them know in the morning that you’ll be joining them for dinner, and enjoy what they make for you.
Day 11 – 14: The Garden Route and the domestic flight to Johannesburg
- From Oudtshoorn back to the coast was another long drive. Back through the mountains first, and then to the first stop along the Garden Route: Knysna. We took a quick look at Knysna Heads guarding the bay (they’re rocks) but didn’t linger: it was 5 degrees and raining heavily.
- We were lucky at the next stop, the Robberg Nature Reserve. It stopped raining for just over an hour, which was just enough for us to do the shortest of the hikes. More about this hike and the part of the Otter trail we did coming up!
- In better weather we would have stopped more along the Garden Route and seen more, but because of the rain and the cold we had to adapt out plans. On the bright side, this left us more time to relax by the fire and enjoy a good meal at the Tsitsikamma Village Inn.
- The last morning in Tsitsikamma involved an alarm clock and a swift breakfast: time to catch a flight from Port Elizabeth to Johannesburg.
Week 3: Safaris and the Panorama Route
We saved the wildlife for last, ending the trip with safari days, early mornings and sightings that felt almost unreal. As it was winter in South Africa, this also meant that we travelled from cooler to warmer weather. The Panorama Route was a nice change from all the safari action. It had winding roads, beautiful views and plenty of moments where I urged Marc to pull over for “just for one more photo.”
Day 15 – 18: a night in Johannesburg and the first safaris
- The flight from Port Elizabeth to Johannesburg left early and went smoothly. We’d arranged for another airport transfer to our guesthouse: Lucky Bean Guesthouse, where we stayed one night.
- We had time to go out for a meal and see a movie in Johannesburg. We took an Uber there and back. I did not feel all that safe, but that may have been because of all the horror stories. If I’d been alone, I would have stayed in the guest house.
- Our rental car was once again delivered to the guest house. We got an upgrade, which came in handy for the safari self-drive later.
- The drive from Johannesburg to Phalaborwa was very long. We made a few stops along the way and still it was long. Road quality was good though and once we were outside of Johannesburg it wasn’t busy.
- In Phalaborwa we stayed three nights in Bush Villas on Kruger. This was indeed a villa! It was self-catering and we’d arranged for breakfast hampers to be delivered to the villa. The Bush Villas did not have a restaurant, but we could use the facilities of a nearby resort, a short walk away, safely inside gates. I loved staying here, and if you are interested, you can book a Bush Villa here.
- We did one guided safari here, before doing a self-drive on the second day. Read more about our guided safari in this experience post.
- If you’re not sure whether to self-drive, join a guided tour or stay in a private game reserve, I’ve written a post about the pros and cons of each option.
Days 19 – 20: staying in a safari camp in Timbavati Private Game Reserve.
- This was the full safari experience, including game drives, sundowners, sleeping in a treehouse, great meals, wonderful stories by the fire… unforgettable.
- In fact I loved it so much I wrote not one but two posts about it. Here’s the one about the first day: safaris and showers under the stars. It links to the second one if you’d like to read more.
Days 21 – 24: The Panorama Route, another safari day and back to the airport
- It wasn’t far from the safari camp to our next guesthouse, Idle&Wild in Hazyview. We stayed here for three nights.
- We arrived on time, so we could enjoy the swimming pool (although the words Ice bath come to mind – it was nice weather, but still winter) and a nice walk and a meal.
- On our second day, we drove a large part of the Panorama Route. Best stops were the three Rondavels, Bourke’s Luck Potholes and the Graskop Gorge lift. We didn’t see all the waterfalls along the route. It was getting dark and the road was so full of potholes we didn’t want to drive it after sunset. So start early if you want to see it all.
- Our last day was another self-drive in Kruger Park. What a way to say goodbye.
- The drive back to the airport in Johannesburg was another long one. Our flight left very late so we could still go and see the Apartheidsmuseum, which I recommend.
Final takeaways and possible tweaks
- This itinerary was perfect for us, although it did include a lot of driving. If you don’t want to do all the driving yourself, you could go on guided tours of the Swartberg Pass and the Cape Peninsula, as well as join more guided safaris and do less self-driving.
- People tend to worry about safety in South Africa, and there is indeed every reason to be cautious. A little awareness goes a long way. Keep valuables low-key, don’t flash your phone or cash, and stick to busy, well-lit areas. Use trusted transport, especially at night, and avoid wandering around looking lost. Arrange a transfer from the airport and have a rental car delivered to your accommodation later. If you’re driving, lock the doors and stay alert at stops. Mostly, trust your instincts—if something feels off, it probably is, so move on.
- Food was amazing everywhere, and very cheap. Our daughter, who’s a vegetarian, didn’t have any trouble finding food she loved. Do let safari camps know about any dietary requirements you may have.
- If you only have two weeks, I would recommend doing one week based in Cape Town. Do guided tours or self-drive to Hermanus, the Cape Peninsula and the Cape Winelands, followed by a domestic flight and a week in and around Kruger. This would mean skipping Oudtshoorn and the Garden Route. They were beautiful and definitely worth it, but if you have to make choices, that’s what I would skip.
A tongue-in-cheek checklist: is this trip too rushed for you?
Tick the ones that are true for you
☐ I start to resent travel if I have to pack up every two or three days
☐ Early mornings are fine… occasionally, not repeatedly
☐ Long driving days sound romantic until about hour three
☐ I need a recovery day after anything described as “active”
☐ I’d rather see fewer places properly than collect destinations
☐ Being tired makes me grumpy—and I travel with someone who notices
☐ I want flexibility to linger if a place is unexpectedly charming
☐I need occasional privacy or solo time to recharge. Especially important if you opt for a group tour.
If you tick a lot of the boxes, our itinerary may still be a bit rushed for you. Want to take a more serious look at whether an itinerary is too rushed or exhausting? Download the trip-planning checklist below. You can use it for any future trip to decide whether changes are needed. No sign-up needed, direct download. If you would like to receive occasional emails with tips and stories, you can subscribe to our newsletter.
