Lava View Lodge Bromo review: where’s the lava?

There was one small problem with Lava View Lodge: there was no lava. There was, fortunately, a Mount Bromo. And the view from the lodge was so good that I soon forgot all about the disappointing lack of molten rock. Not that I had seriously expected to find any. I do read the reviews occasionally.

We arrived at Lava View Lodge in the late afternoon, after a walking tour of Malang and our rather more energetic adventure at Madakaripura Waterfall. Translation: we were tired. Our driver dropped us at reception, we checked in, collected our bags and set off towards our room.

I say “set off” because Lava View Lodge is built on the side of the mountain, spread across several terraces. There were a few flights of stairs, followed by a sort of incline, followed by more stairs. After a full day of walking, it felt like quite enough adventure for one day. But we had arrived while there was still daylight, and there was no way we were going to waste it.

The view is the real reason to stay

We crossed the road and immediately understood why people come to stay here. Mount Bromo is incredibly close, rising above the vast expanse of the Tengger caldera. Every so often, a cloud of steam billowed from the volcano, while the sandy plains below looked almost otherworldly. It was stunning.

We weren’t the only ones admiring the view, either. People trek up to this spot simply to watch the landscape unfold below them, so staying across the road from it gives you a rather nice advantage: you don’t have to trek anywhere. You can just wander over.

We returned later, as the last light disappeared, and watched Bromo in the fading glow before looking up at the stars. With very little artificial light around us, this was a particularly memorable part of our stay.

And yes, before you ask: there was still no lava.

Dinner, Bintang and an excellent dessert

After our first look at Bromo, we headed to the restaurant for dinner. We were hungry. We’d been walking around Malang and scrambling our way through the Madakaripura adventure, so we weren’t interested in hanging around waiting for a table. Fortunately, we were early enough that this wasn’t a problem.

The restaurant has both Indonesian and Western options, which is useful when you’re travelling with different tastes or simply want something familiar after a long day. Our food was very nice, and the Bintang went down particularly well. The dessert was even better. Let’s just say that Lava View Lodge serves a mean Bintang and an even meaner dessert.

After dinner, we went back outside for one last look at Bromo and the stars before retreating to our room.

The rooms are basic, and it is cold

We stayed in a Double Deluxe Room. Lava View Lodge also offers Twin Deluxe Rooms and Family Rooms, so there are options for couples, friends travelling together and families.

Our room was perfectly adequate for a short stay. It had the facilities we needed, including tea- and coffee-making facilities, and the bed was comfortable. It was also fairly basic. If you’re looking for a polished boutique hotel, this isn’t it. The rooms are functional rather than luxurious, and the bathroom in particular was nothing special. The bathroom was also very cold.

In fact, the whole lodge was cold. Lava View Lodge sits at more than 2,200 metres above sea level, so temperatures here are rather different from what you might have experienced elsewhere in Java. This is the point where I recommend digging the warm clothes out of your suitcase.

We had tea-making facilities in the room, although our attempt at making tea was less successful than we’d hoped. At this altitude, water boils at a lower temperature than it does at sea level, so the kettle can be doing exactly what it is supposed to do while your tea remains disappointingly lukewarm. Coffee doesn’t have this problem quite as dramatically, so coffee drinkers may fare better.

By 9 p.m., we were in bed. Partly because it was cold, and partly because we’d had a very full day. By 9:10 p.m., we were sound asleep.

The 3 a.m. start

We slept until around 2:30 a.m. Then, before our alarm even had the chance to go off, the doors started slamming. Footsteps appeared in the corridors. Outside, the jeeps began rumbling into life. Nobody comes to Bromo for a lie-in.

We had arranged a private Bromo tour, including the sunrise viewpoints and a visit to the crater. The tour itself was straightforward. Finding our jeep was less so. At 2:30 in the morning, with a collection of identical-looking jeeps outside and a lot of very sleepy people wandering around in the dark, we had to work out which one was ours without much assistance. We eventually found it.

A little more organisation around the departures would have helped, but at least we weren’t starting the morning with a long drive from elsewhere in Java. We were already beside Bromo.

And that is really the trade-off with Lava View Lodge: you get the location, and you also get to experience the consequences of the location.

What is there to do in Cemorolawang?

We can’t claim to have conducted a thorough investigation of the nightlife in Cemorolawang. We went to bed at 9 p.m.

But if you have more energy than we did, there are a few options. You can walk into Cemorolawang for a drink or a snack at one of the local warungs, and if you’re lucky there may be live music at the Lava Coffee Shop. Otherwise, this is very much a place for slowing down, looking at the landscape and stargazing.

And going to bed early. Very early. Because somewhere in the back of your mind, that 3 a.m. alarm is already waiting.

Is Lava View Lodge worth staying at?

If you’re looking for a luxurious hotel with polished bathrooms, warm rooms, an infinity pool and resort facilities, Lava View Lodge probably isn’t going to be your favourite hotel in Indonesia.

If you’re visiting Mount Bromo, however, the location is hard to argue with. You’re right beside the spectacular Tengger landscape, with Mount Bromo looming across the sea of sand. You can walk across the road to watch the volcano in daylight, return for sunset, look at the stars, have dinner and be in bed before most people have finished their evening. And when the 3 a.m. Bromo adventure begins, you’re already there.

The lodge itself is fairly basic and the terrain means it isn’t suitable for wheelchair users: it’s spread across multiple terraces with stairs and inclines and there is no lift. It can also be very cold, particularly in the bathroom, so pack accordingly. But if your priority is being close to Bromo rather than luxury, Lava View Lodge makes a lot of sense.

Just don’t arrive expecting to see any lava. We certainly didn’t. We did, however, get a spectacular view of one of Indonesia’s most extraordinary volcanic landscapes. And honestly, I’ll take that.

What to know before staying at Lava View Lodge

Does Lava View Lodge organise Bromo tours?

Yes. Bromo jeep trips can be arranged through the lodge. We had a private tour to the Bromo sunrise viewpoints and crater, although our travel agency made the booking for us.

The tour itself was straightforward. The only slightly confusing part was finding our jeep at around 2:30 a.m., when several jeeps were starting up and everyone was trying to work out where they were supposed to be.

How early do you have to get up for Bromo?

Very early. Our morning started at about 2:30 a.m., and the lodge was already coming to life: doors slamming, footsteps outside and jeeps starting up. This is not a criticism of the lodge. It’s simply what happens when you stay somewhere where almost everyone is there to see Bromo at sunrise. If you are hoping for a peaceful night’s sleep, bring earplugs. Or lower your expectations.

Can you have breakfast after the Bromo tour?

Yes, and this worked brilliantly for us. Breakfast was included and was served until 10:00 a.m., so after our trip to the Bromo crater we got back to the lodge in time for breakfast. Much better than trying to eat breakfast at 2:30 in the morning. Although I do recommend bringing some snacks, as 7 hours of exercise on an empty stomach isn’t ideal either.

What rooms are available?

We stayed in a Double Deluxe Room. There are also Twin Deluxe Rooms and Family Rooms. Our room was fine for a short stay and had everything we needed, but it was fairly basic. You’re not booking Lava View Lodge for boutique-hotel interiors. You’re booking it because of what is outside.

Is it really cold at Lava View Lodge?

Yes. At more than 2,200 metres above sea level, temperatures are considerably cooler than in many other parts of Java. We were particularly aware of it in the bathroom. Bring warm clothes and make sure your pyjamas haven’t disappeared to the bottom of your suitcase.

Does Lava View Lodge have a pool?

No. But given that we were already contemplating our winter wardrobe, I can’t say a swimming pool was high on our list of requirements. For me, that’s saying something.

Is the lodge wheelchair accessible?

No. The lodge is built across several terraces, with stairs and inclines between the different areas, and there is no lift.

This makes it unsuitable for wheelchair users and potentially difficult for anyone with significant mobility issues.

What can you do around Lava View Lodge?

The obvious answer is: look at Bromo. The volcano is directly across the road, and the landscape around it is spectacular. It’s worth going over in the afternoon, returning for sunset and staying outside after dark to look at the stars.

If you have more energy than we did, you can also walk into Cemorolawang for a drink or snack at one of the local warungs. There may be live music at Lava Coffee Shop as well.

Is Lava View Lodge worth it?

For us, yes – because of the location. The lodge itself is basic, the bathroom isn’t going to win any design awards and it gets cold enough that you’ll be grateful for those pyjamas you brought “just in case”. But walk across the road and there’s Mount Bromo, steaming away in front of you, with the enormous Bromo Tengger Semeru landscape stretching out below. And when the alarm goes off at some ridiculous hour, you’re already there. That’s really what you’re paying for.

Just don’t expect lava.

Planning a trip to Indonesia?

Planning a trip to Indonesia? These guides may help:

• Indonesia travel guide: practical information and inspiration for planning a trip.
• Java itinerary: our route through Java, including Bromo and other highlights.
• Sumatra itinerary: if you’re combining Java with a trip further west.

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